The train lurches forward, and I kick my carry-on bag, which holds a hodgepodge of items in disarray. Slumping forward, something cylindrical and urgently green rolls down the long aisle. I gasp and make a grab for it, but it’s too late. The thing lazily ricochets across the rubbery aisle, alerting everyone of my presence. Every French eye, snatched from perusing Le Monde or Le Figaro, watches its progress, as it pitches this way and that, according to the undulations of the train car. It hits an older lady on the back of her chunky heel before banking across the aisle and coming to rest against a leather bag whose owner I cannot fathom.
It’s the portable oxygen mask sealed in a canister—“The Life Force 3000”—I take on every airplane flight, in case of emergency. My father bought my first one twelve years ago, before our family flight to England, and I have purchased this one, the third, from a catalogue that sells such things as radiation suits and water filtration devices and, well, lifesaving oxygen. The third, because they expire. Oxygen doesn’t last forever, apparently.
I bolt from my seat, mortified to be an instigator. Each placid eye finds new focus, zeroing in as I stumble forward, fixing me with such a look of scientific detachment that I feel like a lab rat put through a maze for their study. At least the rat has some cheese to focus on. I compensate for my gaffe by mumbling, “Sorry, sorry,” not even capable of locating “Perdón” in my small French repertoire during the low tide of this second, petty humiliation of the day. I am cognizant of how overly abused the word surreal is in our language, but I don’t know how else to describe chasing down my emergency oxygen mask in a train barreling toward Paris on a foggy morning, with the imperious eyes of France judging me. I almost expect that lady, the one three rows up, with the fussy white dog whose eyes bulge and whose tongue pinkly protrudes, to drink her coffee from a cup wrapped in fur. I have never seen a dog like that, much less on a public train. It’s wearing a pompadour and roosts like a hen on its silk, saffron pillow.
“Sorry. Sorry,” I repeat as I inch forward, smiling nervously, hopeful that, at the very least, they find me colorful. But nobody, not even the dog, cracks a smile. A ticket agent approaches, and I perform a soft shoe number with him, during which he has the nerve to frown disapprovingly. “Pardonnez-moi, Monsieur!”
Finally, I’m in range of the ridiculous object, which shrieks, For Emergency Use Only! I bend down to retrieve it. My outstretched fingers brush against the leather of a black satchel. The bag is soft yet firm, like the skin of a man’s shoulder. I lock onto the canister, relieved to be done with this genuflection, and start to rise.
“You bring your oxygen with you at all times, then?” a voice asks.
Half-crouching, I confront a pair of almond-colored eyes, inches away. Startled, I retreat to a fully upright position. The stranger, the owner of the interested eyes, offers an amused half smile and continues, “Or is it only in France?”
Flustered, I laugh a little. I scramble to think how he knows I’m not French. There are three languages of cautionary warnings on the canister. Why couldn’t I be French?
“I could use some right now. I think I just sucked all the air out of the car.”
His face is long and intelligent, and when he looks at me, I feel like I might finally forget my name. “Do not let them fool you. Parisians are like a—how do you say?—a cult. They enjoy making outsiders, particularly Americans, feel like outsiders.” His accent is thick, but his words aren’t clunky, delivered with a natural rhythm that makes me believe he has spent a lot of time abroad, in England or the U.S.
“How did they know I’m American?” I can’t help but ask, forgetting my little performance of thirty seconds ago.
“Well, are you not?”
“Yes, but I don’t understand.” I frown. “Are we that hopelessly out of place?”
“I heard your accent; the others likely did too. And the apologizing?” He nods and offers a wry smile. “For all their occasional bluster, I find Americans to be the most insecure nation of people.”
Stung, I retort, “And I am finding the French to be the most judgmental.”
He laughs. “You are probably right about this.” His eyes flick to his book, about the size of his hand. Small, intense font. He seems finished with me.
His ready detachment curls my toes into their Keds.
The ticket agent returns to find me still making his life miserable. Turning to leave, I realize I have a book in my left hand, a finger marking some phantom place on page who-gives-a-crap. Before I can take a step, the stranger’s eyes, alerted to the book by the flapping of its pages—a soft, airy phfft as I allow the leaves to run over my thumb in dissatisfaction—catch the title. I don’t know if it’s my imagination, but his face illuminates, like a child’s who is entrusted with a delicious secret, and he exhales from a pocket of ecstasy I cannot fathom. Looking up at me, eyes burning, he remarks, “I apologize. I see the whole of your situation now.”
“And what is that?” I ask, baffled. I’m not used to people talking like this. You know, with sincerity.
His eyes are like my father’s at his best: clear and brilliant, believing the best in me. “You are no tourist.”
He turns back to his little book without another word. I am transported, without legs, back to my seat. I do not think I breathe until the train pulls into a station, and the doors part with a soft swoosh. He rises to exit the train, never looking back.
I watch him go.